Legacy Carved in Stone: A Journey Through Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami

Commitment to work ! ... How else can I rationalize my checking of e-mails on 1st January, the starting of the new year?

If you are wondering why I was working on 1st January, you must be working in technology space. And if you are wondering why reading e-mails is work, you must be NOT working in technology space.  

'Successful sunsetting of our legacy IT system' was the first e-mail thread in front of me. The system was built ten years back and was showing signs of being beyond repair. 

For the uninitiated, these days ten years are sufficient for IT systems to become legacy, I mean reaching 'end of useful life'. 

As I started reading the e-mail I sensed discomfort. Questions such as "What is legacy?" "Isn't legacy something that outlasts the creator?" started getting bigger and bigger with no signs of any answer.

Over a period of time I have realized the value of the questions that make me uncomfortable. The more I welcome them the more they teach me. In fact they are teachers disguised as questions.  

"We all die. The goal isn’t to live forever, the goal is to create something that will." 

Thanks to our year end vacation at Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami, the perspective had changed. The definition of legacy was understood. Reflecting back, Travel was the teacher !

A great vacation is like first love, while it's over it doesn't feel so, it remains with us. 

On a second thought isn't it true about every unique experience that touches the right chords? The experiences remain with us, they change us, forever.

Talking about experiences, the best one was to see this Shiva idol performing tandav dance with 18 hands. Carved in stone in 6th century, 1500 years back.  

 

It all started on 20th December. We were all set to visit Orissa and experience the grandeur of the Sun Temple at Konark, the Jagannath Temple at Puri, and the birds at Mangaljodi starting 22nd December. 

Whoever said "Man proposes, God disposes" probably wrote our prophecy.

Our plan had to be cancelled last minute due to bad weather. With some reluctance we ended up planning a road trip to Vijapur, Aihole,  Pattadakal, and Badami, architectural gems nestled in Karnataka, India. These ancient sites stand as monumental testaments to India's rich heritage and the enduring legacy of its architects, artisans, and rulers.

Our journey began with visit to Vijapur, a city that seamlessly blends historical grandeur with vibrant local culture.

Arriving in Vijapur as the sun dipped below the horizon, we made our way to the Shivgiri Temple. The temple's serene ambiance, illuminated by the soft glow of evening lamps, provided a tranquil start to our exploration. The towering statue of Lord Shiva, a testament to contemporary craftsmanship, stood majestically against the twilight sky, inviting contemplation and reverence.

The next morning, we embarked on a charming horse cart ride, a traditional mode of transport that offered an intimate glimpse into the city's rich heritage. Our guide navigated the bustling streets, leading us to several historical landmarks:

• Jama Masjid: This grand mosque, with its expansive courtyard, the gold plated stone carving  and intricate arches, exuded a sense of peace and architectural brilliance.

  

• Muluk Maidan Cannon: Standing as a silent sentinel, this massive cannon spoke volumes of the city's storied past and its strategic significance.

• Bara Kaman: The unfinished arches of this mausoleum, reaching skyward, evoked a poignant beauty, narrating tales of ambition and the impermanence of human endeavours.

During our ride, we encountered an elderly lady whose eyes sparkled with joy at the sight of us together in the horse cart. Her warm smile and blessings added a personal touch to our journey. Moments later, a cheerful five-year-old greeted us with enthusiastic hand waves, his innocent delight reflecting the welcoming spirit of Vijapur's residents.

After the ride we visited the iconic Gol Gumbaz. The sheer scale of its dome, one of the largest in the world, left us in awe. Inside, the famed whispering gallery intrigued us; even the softest murmur travelled across the vast space, a marvel of acoustic engineering that connected us to the ingenuity of its creators.

As dusk approached, we found ourselves at the Ibrahim Roza, often hailed as an inspiration for the Taj Mahal. The intricate carvings and symmetrical gardens, bathed in the golden hue of the setting sun, mesmerized us. The mausoleum's elegance and the tranquil atmosphere provided a perfect conclusion to our day, leaving us with a deep appreciation for the city's artistic legacy.

Our brief sojourn in Vijapur was not just a journey through monumental structures but also an immersion into the warmth of its people and the enduring spirit of its heritage. The city's harmonious blend of history and humanity enriched our travels, setting a reflective tone for the adventures that lay ahead.

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Our journey through the heart of Karnataka was a voyage into the annals of history, where each site narrated tales of devotion, artistry, and imperial grandeur.

Aihole: The Cradle of Temple Architecture

Often called the "Cradle of Indian Temple Architecture," Aihole welcomed us with its serene charm. This quaint village is home to over 100 temples, each narrating stories of divine devotion and architectural brilliance.

We began at the Durga Temple, an elliptical marvel that stands apart with its semi-circular sanctum and exquisite carvings depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. As sunlight bathed the sculptures, they seemed to breathe life into the stone figures, making us pause in awe of the craftsmanship.

The Lad Khan Temple, an architectural experiment of its time, captivated us with its unique design. Originally a royal assembly hall, it later transformed into a temple, showcasing the adaptability of Aihole's artisans. 

Nearby, the Ravana Phadi Cave Temple, hewn from rock, offered intricate depictions of Shiva in various forms, surrounded by celestial beings that seemed to narrate cosmic tales.

Each monument in Aihole whispered secrets of experimentation, a legacy passed down to future generations of builders.

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Pattadakal: The Confluence of Styles

A short drive led us to Pattadakal, where the temples stand as a harmonious blend of northern Nagara and southern Dravidian architectural styles. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Pattadakal symbolizes the zenith of Chalukyan artistry.

The majestic Virupaksha Temple greeted us first. Built by Queen Lokamahadevi to commemorate her husband’s victory, it is a masterpiece of symmetry and intricate sculpture. Inside, the detailed carvings of gods, goddesses, and mythical creatures enveloped us in a divine embrace.

Close by, the Mallikarjuna Temple, smaller yet equally enchanting, echoed similar themes of celebration and devotion. The sculptures of women adorned in traditional jewelry and poses seemed to transcend time, connecting us to an era of cultural vibrancy.

All the temples provided a quieter reflection of Pattadakal’s eclectic spirit. Its detailed narrative panels depicted episodes from the epics, showcasing the artisans' storytelling prowess.

In Pattadakal, legacy found its voice in unity ... unity of northern Nagara and southern Dravidian architectural styles, a confluence of ideas immortalized in stone.

Pattadakal and nearby region is home to many megalithic dolmens. These are prehistoric and evidence of human settlement before 1,000 BCE, likely 3,000 BCE. We were lucky enough to see one. 

Badami: The Soul of the Deccan

As we approached Badami, the ochre-hued cliffs of the Deccan plateau framed our view, standing sentinel over the town. Known for its rock-cut cave temples, Badami felt like stepping into the soul of the Chalukyan dynasty.

The Cave Temples, carved into sandstone cliffs, left us spellbound. The first cave, dedicated to Shiva, welcomed us with a colossal depiction of Nataraja, his dance resonating with cosmic energy. 

The second and third cave, devoted to Vishnu, featured his incarnations, each carving narrating celestial stories with astonishing detail.

Descending further, we reached the serene Agastya Lake, bordered by the Bhutanatha Temples. Their reflection in the tranquil waters added an ethereal beauty to the landscape. Climbing to the Upper Shivalaya, we marveled at the panoramic views and the temple’s fort-like structure, which stood as a guardian of Badami’s enduring spirit.

In Badami, legacy was etched not just in the temples but in the cliffs themselves—a timeless witness to centuries of devotion and artistry. 

As our journey came to a close, the golden hues of the setting sun painted these historic sites in an otherworldly light. Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami reminded us that legacy isn’t just about preservation; it’s about continuity. Each sculpture, each stone, and each temple told stories that transcended time, inspiring us to reflect on our place in this endless narrative.

While we were looking at man made marvels, nature had its own way presenting her creation in vibrant colours like this Indian Roller!

 

India’s heritage isn’t just carved in stone; it’s etched in the heart of every traveler who witnesses it. As we left, we carried with us the echoes of these ancient sites, promising to share their tales and keep their legacy alive. 

Reflecting on our journey, we were not only awestruck by the architectural splendours of Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami but also deeply moved by the warmth and hospitality of the people we encountered. From the cheerful greetings of local children to the insightful narratives of our guides, every interaction enriched our experience, making this expedition through Karnataka's historical landscapes truly unforgettable.

The enduring legacy of Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami teaches the modern world the art of harmonizing creativity with precision, collaboration with individuality, and innovation with timeless values. Just as ancient artisans carved their vision into stone, we must craft solutions with resilience and purpose, leaving behind a legacy that transcends time. True progress lies in building systems that honour both human ingenuity and the larger tapestry of our shared existence.

Thanks for reading, if you are still with me! Feel free to add your comments and / or share with people who may like.

The free birds

"Welcome to the prison where every prisoner is innocent" .. I was stunned by these words. Life's deeper lessons can be very hard to digest.   

Welcome to the prison where every prisoner is innocent!

For a moment I thought this was the worst welcome one could ever have. Luckily we were visitors ... visiting the place as a tourist attraction, without realizing that it could be something different. 

We were at the Singapore Bird Paradise, Asia's largest bird park. Call it a paradise, park or a zoo, it was still a prison, for the birds. And for us, tourists, it was a Bird Paradise.

Indeed, truth, like diamond, has many faces!

It all started last year when Smita and I decided it was time to visit a modern destination during our vacation. A place people generally know and visit as tourists. In recent years, we've visited places like Jibhi, Shangarh, Ketty Valley, Kelshi, Awas, and Ganeshgudi ... destinations so obscure that people often ask if they even exist, and if so, why anyone would visit such unknown places.

Smita and I prefer destinations closer to nature and far from civilization. Each of these places offered us incredible experiences. But this time, we wanted something different. We wanted to experience one of the world's most modern cities, and Singapore was the obvious choice.

As we explored the available experiences, a visit to Bird Paradise quickly became our unanimous choice. Located within Mandai Wildlife Reserve, Bird Paradise spans 17 hectares and is home to 3,500 birds from 400 species, 24% of which are threatened. The park immerses guests in naturalistic, mixed-species habitats across eight large walk-through aviaries, reflecting different biomes of the world, from dense African rainforests to Australian dry eucalypt landscapes.

We took an MRT ride to Khatib on the North South Line, followed by a shuttle to Bird Paradise, and arrived at the entrance to the paradise... or was it a prison?

The entrance was contactless, with the usual QR scanning process, and while I was scanning, I heard it ... my inner voice.

There's something about the inner voice that I both love and hate. It's one of those things to be treasured, perhaps just next to true love. And that's why I cherish it.

But why does the inner voice have to be so harsh? Prison? Really?

My relationship with my inner voice has been a long one. Whenever it surfaces, which isn't often, it turns into a learning experience. Today was going to be one of those days. I smiled at the thought. The gatekeeper at the entrance smiled back, assuming my smile was a welcoming gesture. If only AI could detect why someone is smiling, half the misunderstandings in life might just disappear. A thought for my startup-driven friends to think about.

As we entered the paradise, the world felt different. The air was filled with a symphony of chirps, tweets, and calls—a chorus of avian voices that transported us to distant lands. The lush greenery and carefully crafted habitats created the illusion of being in the wild, yet the invisible barriers reminded us of the true nature of this place.

We wandered through the various aviaries, each one a microcosm of a different part of the world. The Waterfall Aviary, with its 35-meter high waterfall, left us in awe. The mist from the cascading water created an ethereal atmosphere, perfect for the tropical birds that called it home.

As we observed the colorful lorikeets in the Australian Walkthrough, my inner voice spoke up again. "Look at how they flit from branch to branch, always within the same confined space." I tried to push the thought away, focusing instead on the beauty of their vibrant plumage.

The Penguin Cove brought smiles to our faces as we watched the adorable birds waddle and swim. Yet, I couldn't help but think about the vast oceans they would never see. The inner voice was relentless, wasn't it?

Throughout our visit, I found myself torn between amazement at the diversity of bird life and a nagging sense of unease. The Birds of Paradise, with their elaborate courtship dances, were a sight to behold. But did their intricate rituals hold the same meaning in this artificial environment?

As we exited through the gift shop, my eyes fell on a beautiful painting of birds in flight against an open sky. The irony wasn't lost on me. Here we were, leaving a place called paradise, yet the truest paradise for these creatures lay beyond its walls.

On our way back, Smita noticed my silence. "What are you thinking about?" she asked. I shared with her the conflicting thoughts that had been plaguing me throughout our visit. To my surprise, she nodded in understanding.

"It's a complex issue, isn't it?" she mused. "On one hand, places like these help in conservation and educate people about biodiversity. On the other hand..."

Her voice trailed off, but I knew we were on the same page. We spent the rest of our journey discussing the ethics of zoos and wildlife parks, the importance of conservation, and our responsibility towards other species.

As we reached our hotel, I realized that our visit to Bird Paradise had given us more than just a tourist experience. It had sparked important conversations and forced us to confront uncomfortable truths about our relationship with nature.

The inner voice, harsh as it may be, had once again led me to a deeper understanding. Perhaps that's why I treasure it, despite its occasional inconvenience. It reminds me to look beyond the surface, to question, and to seek a more profound connection with the world around me.

As I drifted off to sleep that night, my dreams were filled with images of birds soaring across limitless skies, truly free. And I found myself hoping that one day, the only paradise these magnificent creatures would know would be the vast, open world that is rightfully theirs.

Dear Readers, if you are still with me, many thanks ! Feel free to share this blog with those who may be interested, and do add your comments !