A quick trek to Rajgad

First week of June always starts with an expectation. Heavy winds, rains, traffic jams, road blockages, pot holes, interrupted power supply, that’s what an ordinary citizen of Pune expects during this month. Thanks to the rains, and of course the local governing body, all expectations were met in the last few days.  The rains were pouring; the roads were blocked, what else I could plan for a Saturday morning, a TREK!

I started early in the morning, at 5 AM. It was dark outside. I like travel in the dark. Yes, it’s a loaded statement. If you want to do something that you believe you can, probably you don’t need to see everything that’s out there. Darkness is better. You just need enough light to see the next step (for a car probably the next 20 ft, for a start-up it’s probably the first version of the product, for someone who wants to write a book it’s the first blog). And that’s all. Darkness gives you the focus. Sunlight does not. It shows you things that you don’t NEED to see.

Enough of philosophy for now, I had to pickup Sagar.  Dr. Sagar Sabade, an old friend of mine (I mean the friendship is old, we are young!) is back in India for a few weeks. He wanted to confirm that my treks are as exciting as I portray them in my blog.

Uphill climb

At 5:14 AM Sagar was waiting outside his house. A quick handshake, and a smile, that was enough to bridge the 18 months gap after which we were meeting each other. We have been friends for last 22 years, and out of that we spent just 3 years together, during the engineering days. But real friendship is beyond time and space. I guess most of the things that really matter, like friendship and love, can’t be constrained by time and space.

In-spite of the close friendship, we had not done a single trek together. So this was a special TREK for me. I was hoping that it turns out to be the same for Sagar.

The first few minutes were spent on talking about routine things like work, family and other usual matters. By the time we reached the tunnel on the Katraj bypass, we had started our discussions about purpose of life.  One can discuss such matters with very close friends like Sagar. 

Rajgad in the Clouds

By the time we reached toll plaza, our discussion again moved on to WORK. Somehow in the last few years ‘business’ has changed. Life has become very fast, for everyone. And it has started impacting our daily life, relationships, and the way we live. Look at it, close friends like us, when we got a chance to talk, spent almost an hour on discussing WORK. For a moment I thought life is HARD. Yes, and it has started impacting me. Something is wrong.

While we were busy discussing WORK, the car had reached the destination. A left turn from Margasani and we were at Gunjavani, the base of the grand Rajgad. The fort was covered in all green (trees, bushes, grass) and white (clouds). We parked the car in the Gunjavani village and started our trek. It was 6:30 AM.

Rajgad literally means king of forts and fort of the kings. It is a great fort. This was the capital of Shivaji Maharaj for a long duration, before he shifted it to Raigad.

Lake on Padmavati Machi

It’s a long trek from Gunjavani. With moderate speed, without a break, it takes around 80 minutes for me. I have seen people taking 3 hours as well. But that’s not fun. TREK should be quick, fast and adventurous. In 40 minutes we were at the wind point. If you want to experience WIND, this is a good place in the Sahyadri ranges. There are other places too (like Rohida, Torna, Kaas plateau). Beyond this point, it’s a steep uphill trek. During the entire trek, Sagar was leading the way and I was following him. We reached the rock patch at 7:40 AM. Rock patch is a great place. Sagar was thrilled to go through this patch. The last 80 minutes had brought a change, a welcome change. We were both talking about LIFE and forgotten WORK. Body was sweating and mind was fully charged, fresh.

Rajgad Citadel

At 7:50 AM we had entered the fort through the Chor Darwaza (a small escape route meant for emergencies). After a short break of 5 minutes, and some chikki’s, we started moving around. We saw Saibai’s Samadhi, the remains of the royal palace and the sadar. I was planning to keep this trek a short one and wanted to start the return journey immediately. But Sagar wanted to see the fort, at least some parts of the fort. We had three choices; we could have visited the citadel, the sanjeevani machi and the suvela machi. All three places are great. I chose suvela machi as it could be done more quickly than other places. The walk from padmavati machi to suvela machi is great during monsoon. We had enough clouds around and there was wind. We were feeling fresh. Soon we reached the chilkhati buruj of suvela  machi. The fortification of this machi is amazing. We climbed the stairs of the buruj and decided to have the breakfast there.

 We had shira and some biscuits. Then we proceeded to the ‘Nedha’, a natural needle hole

Suvela Machi

carved out by wind on a vertical cliff. It’s around 20 ft in diameter. The route to Nedha includes a vertical rock patch. This patch does not have railings and hence climbing it is some risk and great fun. Check the photo below to sense the challenge. Try to find Sagar in the photo and you will see how big the 'Nedha' is! The view from the ‘Nedha’ was amazing. We rested there for 5 minutes and then started our return journey.

Sagar sitting in the Nedha

The return journey from suvela machi to padmavati machi was like walking in the clouds, literally. That was refreshing. At 10 AM, we were back to the Chor Darwaza. While we were planning to start our descent, some trekkers were arriving. Those folks had apparently started from Pune at 4 AM. God knows what they were doing for last 6 hours.  

We started our return journey. Walking down the rock patch was a great experience. Beyond that we had some easy patches and some steep patches. Overall it was fun. At 11:30 we were back to the parking lot. Drive back to Pune was a non-event. At 12:50 PM I dropped Sagar to his place and came back to my place at 1:00 PM.  .... The trek was strenuous, challenging and fun. In short it was EXCITING.

The trek was over on Saturday, but it had initiated a deeper thinking, within. What makes anything EXCITING? Is it the joy of achievement? Probably anything that is strenuous, challenging and fun may qualify as EXCITING?

How about WORK? Why is it not EXCITING for me right now? Is it not fun for me? Nothing could be further from the truth. Software development is FUN.  Is it not fast enough?  Is it not strenuous? Is it not challenging? Where is the catch?

The answer arrived on Sunday, I mean today. Now that the flow of thinking has started, it’s not allowing me to take a break. I need to write it down, right now, at 11 PM. While I am writing, one of my colleague pings me on a communicator tool. He is still working and shares some test results.

One quick question comes to my mind. Why is he working right now at 11 PM? Is it fear (don’t lose your job in a tough economy), is it greed (get more pay), or is it something else.

Probably it’s something else; it’s the joy of achievement.

Like many other things worth doing, software development is strenuous, challenging and fun, and is EXCITING.

For that matter driving is EXCITING. But for whom? Obviously if you WANT to drive, then any strenuous, challenging and fun DRIVE will be EXCITING. But what if you HAVE to drive rather than you WANT to drive? Will the drive be EXCITING?

That’s the answer.
If you are doing something because you WANT to do, it’s EXCITING. But if you are doing something because you HAVE to then it’s not. Period.

What is EXCITING for me? What do I WANT to do?
I see that and I get the answer. The answer lies within.

Am I doing Software development because I HAVE to or is it because I WANT to?
A direct question like this deserves a direct answer, and a real answer that comes from within.



I WANT TO!
It’s 11:22 PM, and I am sensing something. It’s the moment of awakening. It’s the time to internalize ….

If you are still reading this stuff, and interested in the journey (I mean the journey to Rajgad, the inner journey is a different matter, find your own directions!) … here is some information that might help. 

Citadel from Suvela Machi

Elevation	4,324 ft (1,318 m)
Difficulty Level	Medium
Endurance Level	Medium
Adventure Level	High
Fun Level	Great
Ideal for	Everyone who has a great respect for Shivaji Maharaj should visit this place at least once. Best season is monsoon. To see the entire fort, you need 2 days.
Routes	Gunjavne Darwaja or Chor Darwaja both on Padmavati Machee from Gunjavne Pali Darwaja from Wajeghar-Pali Alu Darwaja on Sanjeevani Machee via Dhanghar Vada, Bhutunde

A quick trek to Tung aka Kathin Gad

Being in Software Product Development field, most of my weekdays are spent in an AC office, with no connection to nature. I mean we do have plants in the office but I still wonder whether they are real or artificial.

Not that I don't like well maintained AC offices, but its kind of artificial world. You get used to it, but then your mind and your body needs a CHANGE. Open air, strong winds, water bodies, mighty peaks, deep valleys, rising sun and a fast drive into wilderness is something that defines CHANGE for me. 

It was a Friday evening, again, and time for me to plan the next trek. I had captured the images of Tung from Tikona and Lohagad, during my earlier treks, and I had decided to visit Tung at least once. Saturday morning was free, the car had enough petrol and the camera was waiting :-) What else do I need? BTW I have heard that some married people need approval from their better half, luckily I am not one amongst them. So no approvals!

Tung is an amazing fort. If you see it from a distance, say from Lohgad or 

Tung from Lohgad

from Tikona, you may not believe that it can be climbed without equipments. I knew that it might be one of the more adventurous treks, and hence decided to do it alone :-) BTW, I personally prefer to do a trek alone OR with someone who is interested in nature, physical exercise, quick trek, long drive and most importantly +ve attitude. Some of the people who fit in this include an entrepreneur, an MBA who doesn't want to fit in the corporate culture, a gifted guitarist, and other exceptional ones.

On a side note, I became a people manager recently and the first thing I realized is when you appreciate someone, others feel they are ignored. But that's not all. The other part is the one who gets appreciated, forgets that in next 10 minutes. My sincere request to all of you, who have been with me for such treks, is to include yourself in the list of "exceptional ones".

This time it was going to be just me.

Tung from Tikona

I started at 5 AM in the morning. There are multiple advantages of starting early in the morning. First and foremost, you are out of the city in no time. But there are others too ! You can breath fresh air, see sun rise, hear birds music.

I decided to take the least recommended route, Pune-Pirangut-Paud-Javan-Shilim-Morve-Tung Wadi. Note that the route till Javan is the same as the one for Tikona. Also note that this route, especially beyond Javan till Morve, requires a four wheeler with enough ground clearance, a decent car insurance, and driving skills.

When I reached Javan, it was around 6 AM. The sun rise was expected in few minutes. The morning twilight and the panoramic view of Pavana Dam, Tung, Lohgad-Visapur range was amazing.

It was time for some quick photographs

Sun rise in a water body!

and prayers for the 'Sun' God. With that I began the next part of the journey. The next one hour was spent in search of a 'tar road'. I mean there was some 'tar' and there was something like a 'road', and  I was driving and covering the remaining distance, but there was no 'tar road'.

When I reached Shilim, a small village, a villager asked me to stop. While driving through the interior parts of Sahyadri I have learnt that one should obey such instructions. When I stopped the car, he requested me to take his kids to Morve as they had to reach there in 30 minutes and the next ST bus was yet to arrive. 

At least once in your life you are offered "Ummeed Se Dugana" (twice than your expectations). This was that moment in my life :-). Even before I accept the proposal, 9 kids came from nowhere, opened the three doors of my car and jumped inside.  I had no other choice than to take them to the next village Morve. Even with the additional load, the car was doing decent. Within 15 minutes we reached Morve and by the time I stopped the car, the doors were opened and all the kids were out of the car.

From Morve to Tungwadi was a great drive. Once could see Pawna backwaters

Tung as seen from the Morve - Tungwadi road

and the majestic Tung fort. I reached the base of Tung fort at 7 AM. BTW, there was free covered (by trees) parking available at the base. A rare case indeed (as a second thought, Purandar fort also offers free & covered parking at the base, provided you reach early).

The climb from here is decent, definitely not steep. Its narrow and the path is rocky. In 15 minutes I was at the main entrance of the fort. The real trek continues for next

Tung fort - Entrance

15 minutes till you reach the peak. The remaining climb, again, is not steep. But as you reach the peak, the route become narrow, slippery and the valley is deep enough to scare a novice.

Compared to many forts, this is a easy and simple trek, except for this last patch. That's why I don't want to recommend this as a family trek. 

When I was very close to the peak, I could see the path becoming narrow and slippery. 'To do or not to do' was the question, I mean to attempt the summit or not was the question. It was the fight between my bulky body structure and crazy mind. Guess what, in this case, mind won over matter :-)

The Valley

It was 7:30 AM in the ... mobile ! I have stopped using a watch from the time people invented mobiles, now I am waiting for the next invention that replaces mobiles :-)

Tung was historically a watch tower due to its structure. It's just 10x10 feet platform at the top. And there are deep valleys on all side except the narrow route to the top. From here one can get a 360 degree view of Sahyadri. One can see Morgiri, Lohgad, Visapur, Bhatrashi, Pawana Dam, and Tikona fort. It was windy. Due to the 30 minute climb, the body and the mind were in refreshed state.

Don't ask me where are the photos from the TOP. When the mind won the game, the body asked me to keep at least the back pack and the camera SAFE. So I kept the bag at the decision making point. Next time I am going to take a brave person with me who can accompany me and carry my bag to the TOP at least for the last patch.

During all my treks I follow a ritual of eating a decent breakfast and drinking enough water when I reach the top. As my backpack was not with me, I had no other choice than to start my return journey without breakfast at the TOP. A few minutes of descend and I was SAFE again, with my back pack.

After a quick breakfast (including an Apple and chikki) I started my return journey. At 8:15 AM, I was back to the 'covered parking'. 

For the most 'normal' people, 8:15 AM on a Saturday morning is the time to have bed tea or probably the break fast. When people were busy doing that, I had finished a great trek,a long drive and enjoyed an "Ummeed Se Dugana" event. The body was refreshed, the mind was refreshed, and I still had the rest of the day for the 'business as usual'.

Now was the time to decide the route for the return journey. Technically there are many ways of driving from Tung to Pune. I had short listed two options. One was the route that I had taken in the morning and the other was a safer and easier one, Tung-Morve-GhusalKhamb-Lonavala-Pune. I chose the first one ;-)

There were no events during the return journey. The traffic in the city added 15 more minutes to the drive. At 10:30 AM I was back to home, ready to do all the weekend tasks that a caring husband has to do !

Elevation	1075 m (3527 ft)
Difficulty Level	Easy
Endurance Level	Easy
Adventure Level	Medium
Fun Level	Great
Ideal for	Drive and trek in 6 hours ( avoid July & August months )

A quick trek to Raigad

This week has been extremely stressful on multiple fronts. Yesterday was a hectic business day, like all the other week days. I had to drive few key meetings and participate in few others. When I came out of the last meeting, the first thought in my mind was to go for a long drive and a quick trek on Saturday morning. When I say morning, it’s 5:00 AM, yes 5:00 AM on a Saturday morning. And when I say quick, it’s a real quick trek.

How about going to Raigad, seeing the entire fort ( I mean including Hirkani Buruj, and of course all other standard places like the Balekilla ( Darbar, Mahal, Nagar Khana), Jagdishwar temple, Shivaji Maharaj’s Samadhi and Jijabai’s Samadhi at Pachad) and being back in Pune by 5:00 PM.

You think it’s crazy, IT IS!   

You think it’s impossible, IT’S NOT!

Alok, one my entrepreneur friend, accompanies me on such treks. Just a phone call and he was ready.  We started at 5:00 AM from my house in Sahakar Nagar. My plan was to take the Tamhini-Nizampur-Mangao-Mahad-Pachad route and reach Raigad base by 8:00 AM. Guess what, we were at Raigad base exactly at 8:00 AM.

During those three hours we discussed my ideas about my life, my future plans, Alok’s ideas about his next innovation (frankly it was Alok who did the talking, but offered first 30 minutes for me to speak, so I need to acknowledge that J).

The road was mostly in good conditions, except for few bad patches. But it was fun. If you know the road, you probably know that covering this route in 3 hours is a pretty good deal. Of course you need to drive FAST, but need to be careful also, especially in the Tamhini Ghat section.

At 8:00 AM we were in the Raigad ropeway parking area. I parked my Wagon R & quickly rushed to the ticket window and booked our one way tickets. During summer it is really advisable to use the ropeway at least one way. In the end this decision turned out to be the right one.

The ropeway started its daily routine at 8:30 AM. Being early birds, we were able to get on to the Cable Car at 8:45. By 9:00 AM we were at the top of the fort. A 15 minute break at this time for a breakfast (Misal-Pav) and we were ready to explore the fort at 9:15 AM.

Mena Darwaza

I had been to Raigad multiple times but had never seen Hirkani Buruj. So took a left from MTDC resort, which is next to the Ropeway station at the top, and reached Hirkani Buruj. We had 180 degree view of the Sahyadri ranges from here and Kokan Diva fort was prominently visible from here. After a quick visit to the Hirkani Buruj we came back to the Balekilla through the Mena Darwaza, where one can see the Nagar Khana, Raj Darabar, ruins of the Shivai Maharaj’s palace.

Sinhasan

Nagarkhana

Then we moved to the Bazar Peth. The height of each unit is designed in such a way that a horse rider could buy while riding the horse J. That’s quite bit of thinking, 340 years back !

Then we took a left turn and went to the Takmak Tok. It was 10:15 AM and it was already too hot. But it was kind of windy and that was making things little easier. We went to the Takmak, saw the grand view of the Sahyadri ranges. From here one can see the entire route from Pachad to the main entrance of Raigad. One can also see the entire Sahyadri range from Kokan Diva to Lingana. Torna and Rajgad are seen behind Lingana. One can also see the construction of a small dam on the Kal (Kaal?) river.

We then started walking towards Jagadishwar temple. That 15 minute walk was real tiring. The Sun was burning heavily and we were having a direct exposure for last 90 minutes. We entered the Jagadishwar temple and could immediately feel cooler inside. Both of us needed some rest. We sat down in the temple and started feeling better. It was at least 10 degrees cooler than outside.

Jagadishwar Temple

It was 11:15 AM when we decided to start our journey. Shivaji Maharaj’s Samadhi is just outside the Jagadishwar temple. For anyone who knows Maratha history, this place is a place of worship. You will automatically feel the sense of pride, the sense of .. Swarajya, Swabhiman, Vairagya. I don’t know how to translate these words in English. Anyway it’s a futile exercise to do that. Shivaji Maharaj has been a source of inspiration and is a matter of pride for people of Maharashtra.

Shivaji Maharaj Samadhi

On a different note, Government of Maharashtra, for a change, has created a small garden next to the Samadhi. And that too without disturbing the overall feel of the Samadhi. And the place is maintained well. It’s clean and it’s in good shape. I was happy to see the tax payer’s money being utilized for a genuine cause.  Whoever thought of it and whoever is allocating budget for it, my sincere thanks to them. Please maintain this place.

It was 11:30 AM and we started our journey back. We decide to climb down the fort using the trek route. At noon we were at the Maha Darwaza. We continued our decent without a break. At 12:40 we were at the base of the fort. But we still had to walk for 15 more minutes to reach our parking place, which was near the ropeway terminal.

It was time for lunch. We went to the canteen maintained by the Raigad Ropeway Company. They offer a full meal at Rs.65. The lunch was decent. It was time to start our return journey. But then there was one place still remaining to be visited. That place is Jijabai’s Samadhi in Pachad. When you start from Ropeway Terminal, as you reach Pachad, one route goes to Samadhi and the other goes to Mahad. We took the one that took us to the Samadhi. In some sense Jijabai is the mother Maratha History. Her Samadhi is also maintained very well. 

Jijabai Samadhi

Now it was time to decide the route to go back to Pune. We had three options. We could have taken the same route that took while coming here. Then there was another Pachad-Mahad-Varandha Ghat-Bhor-Pune. And third was a short cut from Pachad-Nizampur-Tamhini-Pune. We decided to take this route which is now in good shape. If you have a vehicle with enough ground clearance you can take this route. This route is the nearest one from Pune and saves at least 40 KM compared to the other two routes.  

During the return journey Alok took control of the steering wheel and drove the whole distance. That gave me a relief. Alok was in his full mood. He explained me his entire business plan in three hours and offered me some work that I couldn’t deny. Alok is great guy. He has vision; has practical ideas, and has the hands-on abilities to convert the ideas into reality. It’s always fun to be with him.

It was 5:00 PM on the clock when we were back to my house. The drive and trek experience was over, and it was time to start writing this blog….