Saturday, January 11, 2025

Legacy Carved in Stone: A Journey Through Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami


Commitment to work ! ... How else can I rationalize my checking of e-mails on 1st January, the starting of the new year?

If you are wondering why I was working on 1st January, you must be working in technology space. And if you are wondering why reading e-mails is work, you must be NOT working in technology space.  

'Successful sunsetting of our legacy IT system' was the first e-mail thread in front of me. The system was built ten years back and was showing signs of being beyond repair. 

For the uninitiated, these days ten years are sufficient for IT systems to become legacy, I mean reaching 'end of useful life'. 

As I started reading the e-mail I sensed discomfort. Questions such as "What is legacy?" "Isn't legacy something that outlasts the creator?" started getting bigger and bigger with no signs of any answer.

Over a period of time I have realized the value of the questions that make me uncomfortable. The more I welcome them the more they teach me. In fact they are teachers disguised as questions.  

"We all die. The goal isn’t to live forever, the goal is to create something that will." 

Thanks to our year end vacation at Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami, the perspective had changed. The definition of legacy was understood. Reflecting back, Travel was the teacher !




A great vacation is like first love, while it's over it doesn't feel so, it remains with us. 

On a second thought isn't it true about every unique experience that touches the right chords? The experiences remain with us, they change us, forever.

Talking about experiences, the best one was to see this Shiva idol performing tandav dance with 18 hands. Carved in stone in 6th century, 1500 years back.  



 

It all started on 20th December. We were all set to visit Orissa and experience the grandeur of the Sun Temple at Konark, the Jagannath Temple at Puri, and the birds at Mangaljodi starting 22nd December. 

Whoever said "Man proposes, God disposes" probably wrote our prophecy.

Our plan had to be cancelled last minute due to bad weather. With some reluctance we ended up planning a road trip to Vijapur, Aihole,  Pattadakal, and Badami, architectural gems nestled in Karnataka, India. These ancient sites stand as monumental testaments to India's rich heritage and the enduring legacy of its architects, artisans, and rulers.

Our journey began with visit to Vijapur, a city that seamlessly blends historical grandeur with vibrant local culture.

Arriving in Vijapur as the sun dipped below the horizon, we made our way to the Shivgiri Temple. The temple's serene ambiance, illuminated by the soft glow of evening lamps, provided a tranquil start to our exploration. The towering statue of Lord Shiva, a testament to contemporary craftsmanship, stood majestically against the twilight sky, inviting contemplation and reverence.




The next morning, we embarked on a charming horse cart ride, a traditional mode of transport that offered an intimate glimpse into the city's rich heritage. Our guide navigated the bustling streets, leading us to several historical landmarks:

  • Jama Masjid: This grand mosque, with its expansive courtyard, the gold plated stone carving  and intricate arches, exuded a sense of peace and architectural brilliance.


  


  • Muluk Maidan Cannon: Standing as a silent sentinel, this massive cannon spoke volumes of the city's storied past and its strategic significance.



  • Bara Kaman: The unfinished arches of this mausoleum, reaching skyward, evoked a poignant beauty, narrating tales of ambition and the impermanence of human endeavours.

During our ride, we encountered an elderly lady whose eyes sparkled with joy at the sight of us together in the horse cart. Her warm smile and blessings added a personal touch to our journey. Moments later, a cheerful five-year-old greeted us with enthusiastic hand waves, his innocent delight reflecting the welcoming spirit of Vijapur's residents.

After the ride we visited the iconic Gol Gumbaz. The sheer scale of its dome, one of the largest in the world, left us in awe. Inside, the famed whispering gallery intrigued us; even the softest murmur travelled across the vast space, a marvel of acoustic engineering that connected us to the ingenuity of its creators.






As dusk approached, we found ourselves at the Ibrahim Roza, often hailed as an inspiration for the Taj Mahal. The intricate carvings and symmetrical gardens, bathed in the golden hue of the setting sun, mesmerized us. The mausoleum's elegance and the tranquil atmosphere provided a perfect conclusion to our day, leaving us with a deep appreciation for the city's artistic legacy.








Our brief sojourn in Vijapur was not just a journey through monumental structures but also an immersion into the warmth of its people and the enduring spirit of its heritage. The city's harmonious blend of history and humanity enriched our travels, setting a reflective tone for the adventures that lay ahead.


Our journey through the heart of Karnataka was a voyage into the annals of history, where each site narrated tales of devotion, artistry, and imperial grandeur.

Aihole: The Cradle of Temple Architecture

Often called the "Cradle of Indian Temple Architecture," Aihole welcomed us with its serene charm. This quaint village is home to over 100 temples, each narrating stories of divine devotion and architectural brilliance.

We began at the Durga Temple, an elliptical marvel that stands apart with its semi-circular sanctum and exquisite carvings depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. As sunlight bathed the sculptures, they seemed to breathe life into the stone figures, making us pause in awe of the craftsmanship.





The Lad Khan Temple, an architectural experiment of its time, captivated us with its unique design. Originally a royal assembly hall, it later transformed into a temple, showcasing the adaptability of Aihole's artisans. 



Nearby, the Ravana Phadi Cave Temple, hewn from rock, offered intricate depictions of Shiva in various forms, surrounded by celestial beings that seemed to narrate cosmic tales.



Each monument in Aihole whispered secrets of experimentation, a legacy passed down to future generations of builders.


Pattadakal: The Confluence of Styles

A short drive led us to Pattadakal, where the temples stand as a harmonious blend of northern Nagara and southern Dravidian architectural styles. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Pattadakal symbolizes the zenith of Chalukyan artistry.

The majestic Virupaksha Temple greeted us first. Built by Queen Lokamahadevi to commemorate her husband’s victory, it is a masterpiece of symmetry and intricate sculpture. Inside, the detailed carvings of gods, goddesses, and mythical creatures enveloped us in a divine embrace.



Close by, the Mallikarjuna Temple, smaller yet equally enchanting, echoed similar themes of celebration and devotion. The sculptures of women adorned in traditional jewelry and poses seemed to transcend time, connecting us to an era of cultural vibrancy.



All the temples provided a quieter reflection of Pattadakal’s eclectic spirit. Its detailed narrative panels depicted episodes from the epics, showcasing the artisans' storytelling prowess.






In Pattadakal, legacy found its voice in unity ... unity of northern Nagara and southern Dravidian architectural styles, a confluence of ideas immortalized in stone.


Pattadakal and nearby region is home to many megalithic dolmens. These are prehistoric and evidence of human settlement before 1,000 BCE, likely 3,000 BCE. We were lucky enough to see one. 


Badami: The Soul of the Deccan

As we approached Badami, the ochre-hued cliffs of the Deccan plateau framed our view, standing sentinel over the town. Known for its rock-cut cave temples, Badami felt like stepping into the soul of the Chalukyan dynasty.



The Cave Temples, carved into sandstone cliffs, left us spellbound. The first cave, dedicated to Shiva, welcomed us with a colossal depiction of Nataraja, his dance resonating with cosmic energy. 



The second and third cave, devoted to Vishnu, featured his incarnations, each carving narrating celestial stories with astonishing detail.



Descending further, we reached the serene Agastya Lake, bordered by the Bhutanatha Temples. Their reflection in the tranquil waters added an ethereal beauty to the landscape. Climbing to the Upper Shivalaya, we marveled at the panoramic views and the temple’s fort-like structure, which stood as a guardian of Badami’s enduring spirit.









In Badami, legacy was etched not just in the temples but in the cliffs themselves—a timeless witness to centuries of devotion and artistry. 



As our journey came to a close, the golden hues of the setting sun painted these historic sites in an otherworldly light. Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami reminded us that legacy isn’t just about preservation; it’s about continuity. Each sculpture, each stone, and each temple told stories that transcended time, inspiring us to reflect on our place in this endless narrative.

While we were looking at man made marvels, nature had its own way presenting her creation in vibrant colours like this Indian Roller!


 

India’s heritage isn’t just carved in stone; it’s etched in the heart of every traveler who witnesses it. As we left, we carried with us the echoes of these ancient sites, promising to share their tales and keep their legacy alive. 

Reflecting on our journey, we were not only awestruck by the architectural splendours of Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami but also deeply moved by the warmth and hospitality of the people we encountered. From the cheerful greetings of local children to the insightful narratives of our guides, every interaction enriched our experience, making this expedition through Karnataka's historical landscapes truly unforgettable.

The enduring legacy of Vijapur, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Badami teaches the modern world the art of harmonizing creativity with precision, collaboration with individuality, and innovation with timeless values. Just as ancient artisans carved their vision into stone, we must craft solutions with resilience and purpose, leaving behind a legacy that transcends time. True progress lies in building systems that honour both human ingenuity and the larger tapestry of our shared existence.

Thanks for reading, if you are still with me! Feel free to add your comments and / or share with people who may like.

4 comments:

Satyam said...

This is great! Felt like travelling together.

Anonymous said...

Very well written!

Anonymous said...

Its beautiful
Narrated very well
Must visit place
Thanks for sharing

Aandolan said...

Your blog and the pictures have always been able to provide me a different perspective and has been a learning experience and this blog about timeless architecture of Bijapur and Badami is no exception. Thanks for compiling and sharing it with us. Looking forward to many more.